My Philippines Trip
For the traveller who has already been, and is ready to come back differently.
A letter to begin →You have been to the Philippines. Most likely, you went to Palawan; most likely, you loved it. You told your friends about the limestone and the water, and you have been waiting, quietly, these past two or three years, for the right excuse to come back.
Our job is not to introduce you to the Philippines. It is to introduce you to the Philippines you haven't seen yet.
Kansi sour enough to flinch at. Calle Real at 6:40. A grandson who answers the phone on the third ring.
The Chocolate Hills at 5:40 in the morning are a different country to the ones at noon. The countryside day starts the moment you land.
The far north: Vigan's cobbles, the Bangui windmills, a small desert at Paoay. The only trip we sell where the sea is not the point.
The island the rest of the country tells stories about. The healers are real. The water is the true part.
Go for the surf and you miss Siargao. Go for what the surfers do on their rest days.
You've seen the postcard. Tour A for the lagoons you remember, Tour C for the beaches you missed.
Heritage-led and unhurried. Oslob is off the itinerary, for reasons we are happy to explain.
Not the comeback you have already heard about, but the quieter thing that happened after. Station One at the hours most visitors miss.
The first trip to the Philippines is a photograph. The second is a sentence. By the fourth, it is a paragraph you have started writing and don't quite want to finish.
From the editorial
On the La Paz market stall that will not give the recipe, but will tell you where to buy the beef.
A four-hundred-year-old tree, a small coin offering, and the quiet ways an island holds its ground.
The months the brochures tell you to avoid, and the reasons they are sometimes the better ones to go.